Editors note: Leo Carrillo is a long-time family favorite of the Xavi Surf crew. The campground, nestled in the canyon leading to the beach has been the setting for countless surf trips over the years. From hanging out in hammocks listening to the crashing waves to gathering around night fires swapping stories - all fueled by camp stove feasts and rounds of cornhole and board games - Leo Carrillo holds a special place in our surf tribe's history. Nightly walks and bike rides around the canyon, beach days spent in the water, and mandatory stops at the most fabulous beach store have all become cherished traditions.
The Lineup
Tucked away in the rugged beauty of Leo Carrillo State Park, there's a wave that's earned its place in Malibu's iconic surf lore - Secos, a legendary right-hand point break that peels off with pure perfection when the elements align. While it might not get the hype of some other famous Malibu breaks, that's part of Secos' allure for those in the know. But don't expect to share the lineup with just a few salty locals here. Nope, the vibe at Leo Carrillo is all about introducing the next generation of rippers to this fabled wave. Families and stoked groms from the campgrounds tend to flock here
The Setup
What makes Secos so special? That gnarly rock formation jutting from the shoreline - Secos Rock - acts like a giant wave magnet, bending and shaping incoming swells into a drool-worthy right-hander. But it's no cakewalk. The take-off zone is tight, the rocky bottom unforgiving. You'd better be on your game.
The Sweet Spot
Like any good point break, Secos only shows its colors under the right conditions. A medium tide with solid south, southwest or west swell is prime. But when a larger northwest or west pulse rolls in? The take-off shifts outside the rocks, transforming Secos into a legitimate big-wave playground.
Paying Your Dues
Don't just expect to stroll down and paddle out though. Getting to the Secos lineup is an adventure in itself. You'll scramble down that cobblestone beach, then negotiate a tricky entry over the submerged minefield of rocks and reef - all while dodging legions of hyped groms and families enjoying the kid-friendly scene. It's all part of paying your dues to score this iconic wave when it's firing. Sure, it ain't the salty local's dream uncrowded point, but every surf rat should experience the legendary Secos at least once - even if it means navigating the crowds along the way.
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